Lonafjordur is the 3rd fjord in Jokulfjordur. We spent 2 nights here and rowed ashore. It was pretty incredible. Rowing ashore in a totally uninhabited place has a unique feel. You really are in the middle of nowhere and self dependent. And hiking up a mountain feels GREAT after being on a boat for a while. Nick foraged for greens, so we had some great pasta with sea spinach and muscles.
Trip's End
At Mallaig, on the south side of Skye, Frank left us. Wriley and I continued south. During the day the islands were hazy, and this was in waves. It was due to volcanic ash wafted down from the latest eruption at Grindavik, Iceland. That night we saw the Northern Lights for the last time. Like a glowing green crown, with high horns at the ends, neatly bisected by an imaginary line dropped vertically from the North Star. To the northeast the waning fine crescent of the moon pointed down at the Sun far below the horizon, and in time the Pleiades rose beneath the moon. We got to Tory Island in the night. Walked the cliffs. On the north, NW & W sides of Tory, the sea is deep. The storms here have to have exceptionally violent force. Ferries to Tory are often cancelled. ...

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